Tires & Wheels
Tires: Pressure and Condition
The only thing touching the road
Tires affect how your car stops, steers, grips, and how much fuel it uses. A few minutes with a pressure gauge and a look at the tread is genuinely valuable.
Basics
Find the right pressure for your car
Look on the driver's door jamb (the frame you see when the door is open) for a sticker, usually called the tire placard. It lists the recommended pressure for the front and rear tires, in PSI. Some cars also list it inside the fuel door or in the manual.
Warning signs
The number on the tire itself is NOT your everyday pressure
The big number molded into the tire sidewall is the maximum pressure the tire can hold — not what your car should run at. Always use the door placard, or your manual.
What normal looks like
Where the right pressure lives
Tire & loading information
Door jamb sticker · your numbers will differ
Sidewall number ≠ everyday pressure
The big molded number is the tire's maximum — not what your car should run at. Use the door placard or your manual.
Step by step
Checking and adding air
- 1
Check when tires are cold
Best first thing in the morning or after the car has sat a few hours.
- 2
Press the gauge onto the valve stem
The small capped stem on the wheel. Press firmly and read the number.
- 3
Compare to the placard
Note how far off each tire is.
- 4
Add air in short bursts
At an air pump, add a little, then re-check with your gauge — pumps are often inaccurate.
- 5
Replace the valve cap
It keeps dirt and moisture out of the valve.
Why temperature changes pressure
Air contracts in cold and expands in heat. Pressure can drop noticeably on a cold morning and climb on a long hot drive. This is normal — check and adjust when tires are cold, and do not let air out of warm tires to hit the cold number.
Spotting an underinflated tire
- It looks bulging or squatty at the bottom.
- Steering feels heavier or the car wanders.
- Fuel economy drops.
- The tire-pressure warning light comes on.
Checking tread
Tread is the grooves that channel water away so you do not hydroplane. Look for the wear bars — small raised ridges built into the grooves. When tread is level with them, the tire is worn out and needs replacing.
Quick tip
The penny test — a quick reference, not a final answer
Insert a penny into a groove with Lincoln's head upside down. If you can see the top of his head, tread is getting thin. For real accuracy, use a tread-depth gauge and compare to your manual. The penny test is a handy nudge to look closer — proper measurement is better.
What uneven wear may be telling you
- Worn on both outer edges: often chronic underinflation.
- Worn down the center: often overinflation.
- Worn on one edge: alignment or suspension issue.
- Bald patches or scalloped spots: alignment, balancing, or worn suspension.
Rotation
Front tires usually wear differently from rear tires. Rotating them — moving them between positions — evens out wear so they last longer. How often depends on your car; check the manual, and many shops include it with an oil change.
Warning signs
Damage to inspect for
- Cracks in the sidewall.
- Bulges or blisters — a sign of internal damage.
- Cords or fabric showing through the rubber.
- Nails, screws, or glass embedded in the tread.
- Cuts or gouges.
Warning signs
Some tire damage means do not drive
A bulging tire, visible cords, deep sidewall damage, or a tire losing pressure quickly can fail without warning. Do not drive on it — change it or call for help.
Recommendations vary by vehicle
Intervals, fluids, and procedures differ a lot between cars. Use this lesson to understand the idea, then follow your manufacturer's owner manual for your exact vehicle.
